How to get figs to fruit

Q. One of my two fig trees has produced a few figs. The other one, which is the largest and healthiest tree, has never had a fig on it. Both where planted six years ago. Why is it not producing?

How to get figs to fruit

Mature fig tree with fruit. Photo credit: Larry Williams

A. It may be a matter of age and being overly vigorous. When a fruit tree is younger, it puts most of its energy into producing leaves and shoots. Until the plant becomes mature and slows down in the production of leaves and shoots, it will produce few to no fruit. It may take a year or two more for your tree to slowly and gradually switch from producing mostly leaves and shoots to producing and maturing some fruit. Patience is needed.

Be careful to not overdo it in fertilizing and/or pruning your fig tree. Too much fertilizer, especially nitrogen, or severely pruning the tree will result in the tree becoming overly vigorous at the expense of setting and maturing fruit. This includes fertilizer that the tree may pull up from a nearby lawn area. A tree’s roots will grow outward two to three times beyond its branch spread into adjacent lawn areas.

The end result of being heavy handed with fertilizing and/or overdoing it in pruning is the same – it forces the plant to become overly vigorous in producing leaves and shoots at the expense of producing and maturing fruit.

In addition, the following is taken from an Extension publication on figs and includes the most common reasons for lack of fruiting, in order of importance.

  1. Young, vigorous plants and over-fertilized plants will often produce fruit that drops off before maturing. If plants are excessively vigorous, stop fertilizing them. Quite often, three of four years may pass before the plant matures a crop because figs have a long juvenile period before producing edible quality fruit.
  2. Dry, hot periods that occur before ripening can cause poor fruit quality. If this is the case, mulching and supplemental watering during dry spells will reduce the problem.
  3. The variety Celeste will often drop fruit prematurely in hot weather regardless of the quality of plant care. However, it is still a good variety to grow.
  4. An infestation of root-knot nematodes can intensify the problem when conditions are as described in item 2.
  5. You could have a fig tree that requires cross-pollination by a special wasp. This is a rare problem. If this is the case, then it will never set a good crop. The best way to resolve this is to replace the plant with a rooted shoot of a neighbor’s plant you know produces a good crop each year.

A fresh, properly ripe fig is a thing of great beauty. To grow figs successfully outdoors in the UK, it's important to choose a hardy cultivar and plant it against a sunny wall. In colder areas figs require winter protection; luckily they grow well in containers which is ideal where space is limited. These spend the summer outdoors and are overwintered in a cool, frost-free place. Even a single plant provides a successful crop.

How to get figs to fruit

  • Harvest mature fruit
  • Feed with liquid tomato fertiliser every 2-3 weeks

Move figs growing in pots into a sunny location, outdoors, once there is no danger of frost.

In early spring, feed with a high potassium general fertiliser, such as Vitax Q4. Scatter one handful per square metre/yard around the base. Mulch around the base of fan-trained plants with well-rotted organic matter, to retain moisture and suppress weeds.

Once the figs appear, apply liquid tomato fertiliser every two to three weeks during the growing season, until they start to ripen. Water well during summer.

Dig around the outside of a planting pit every couple of years with a sharp spade to ensure that no roots have escaped.

Figs can produce fruitlets in late summer and spring or summer. Only the tiny pea-sized fruitlets produced in late summer survive winter and are sufficiently well advanced to flower the following summer. Fruitlets produced in spring may ripen in greenhouses but seldom outdoors.

Remove larger fruits that are not mature enough to ripen at the end of the season, leaving the tiny embryo fruits at the shoot tips, to ripen the following year.

Winter protection outdoors: protect fan-trained figs in winter. After leaf fall, pack a fan-trained plant with straw, bracken, or even bubble wrap and then cover with horticultural fleece. Remove the insulation during late spring, from May onwards.

Winter protection in containers: In autumn, move plants that have been grown in pots into an unheated greenhouse, shed or porch.

Training and pruning

Train figs on walls outdoors or in the greenhouse against horizontal wires 30cm (12in) apart or hang 15cm (6in) netting 30cm (12in) away from the glass.

The sap is an irritant. Wear protective gloves, start pruning from the bottom of the plant and work upwards.

Fan-trained figs: in June pinch out the growing tip of every other young shoot carried on the main framework to encourage lower, bushier growth. As shoots develop, tie them into the wires.

Containerised figs: In late March, cut out dead stems and weak branches before growth starts. Mid June: remove the shoot tips from the new growth, leaving four to five leaves.

Read more advice on fig cultivation

Soil should be moisture retentive and free draining – figs thrive in any soil with good drainage.

Allow enough space to train the fig as a fan. The height and spread at maturity can be up to 2m (6.5ft) x 3–3.5m (10–12ft) wide.

Although container-grown plants can be planted at any time, spring is ideal as there is a full growing season for them to become established.

Restricting root growth encourages fruiting. Either dig out a planting pit or grow figs in containers on the patio, or plunged into the soil. Prepare a planting pit by digging a hole 60 x 60 x 60cm (2 x 2 x 2ft). Line the sides with vertical slabs, with 2.5cm (1in) higher than the surrounding soil to prevent the roots from spreading outwards. Add a layer of rubble or broken bricks and crocks 10–20cm (4–8in) deep, in the base.

Plant 20cm (8in) away from the base of a sunny south or south west facing wall or fence. Backfill, using garden soil, (improved with well rotted organic matter if necessary) or with John Innes No 3 compost.

For figs in containers, plant ideally March-April into a pot one size larger than the original. Start them off in 30cm (1ft) pots and re-pot every two years in March using John Innes No 3 in a pot about 5cm (2in) larger each time. Leave a gap of at least 2.5 cm (1in) between the soil and the rim of the pot, to allow for watering.

Read more information about growing fruit, including figs, in containers.

Figs growing in an unheated greenhouse usually produce two crops each summer, while those growing outdoors crop once.

The fruit is ready to harvest when the skin is soft, and occasionally a tear of sugary liquid may be secreted from the ‘eye’ at the base of the fig. They may also split when gently squeezed.

Figs are best eaten sun warmed, straight from the tree. They can also be preserved by drying on trays in an airing cupboard, turning them once a day for a week.

Recommended Varieties

Birds

How to get figs to fruit

Birds, especially pigeons, can cause an array of problems including eating seedlings, buds, leaves, fruit and vegetables.

Remedy

Protect the plants from birds by covering them with netting or fleece. Scarecrows and bird-scaring mechanisms work for a while, but the most reliable method of protection is to cover plants with horticultural fleece or mesh.

Glasshouse red spider or two spotted mite

How to get figs to fruit

Leaves become mottled, pale and covered in webbing, on which the mites can be clearly seen; leaves also drop prematurely.

Remedy

They thrive in hot, dry conditions, so mist plants regularly. Use biological control in the greenhouse.

Wasps

How to get figs to fruit

All tree fruits are prone to wasp damage. As their fruits ripen, the high sugar content attracts wasps, which not only damages the fruit but also poses a threat to gardeners.

Remedy

Hang wasp traps in trees and harvest crops as soon as they ripen. Avoid leaving windfalls or over-ripe fruit on the ground.

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