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Home buyers of insulation products should know what R-value means before they go through with the purchase. The “R” in R-value stands for the material’s resistance to conductive heat flow. The higher the R-value of the product is, the more effective it is at insulation. R19 insulation products are typically used to insulate 2×6 walls in homes classified by the US Department of Energy under climatic Zones 1 through 7. They’re also widely used for crawl spaces in Zone 2 and Zone 3 homes. Our staff will be happy to help you choose the right products from our wide range of R19 insulation options, which include faced and unfaced fiberglass insulation batts, among others. Find the best R19 insulation solution today, only at Pacific Insulation Supply!
Insulation comes in a variety of presentations that are designed to suit different needs, goals, and requirements. Each material provides a specific type of insulation and, while insulation can ultimately be used for any type of requirements, usually, fiberglass is the choice in insulation for almost all projects and needs.
In addition, fiberglass insulation, whether it is presented in rolls or batts, comes with a range of qualifications that are labeled “R-x” where “R” stands for Resistance to Heat Flow so, higher the number, the higher the resistance. That is why, if you need to enhance the insulation in your attic, for example, you can put two layers of insulation and their “R”s will add up.
In this article, we will speak about R19. One of the two most commonly used and recommended to the public by the US Department of Energy as the perfect Resistance to heat flow for insulating any home.
What to use it in?
As it has been stated, the R19 is one of the most popular and commonly used insulation grades for homes and general buildings. Of course, this does not mean that it can’t be replaced or that another type of R can be used. R19 can also be used to add to other Rs or even add to another layer of R19.
R 19 insulation usually comes in 6 inches thick and it is a perfect match for areas that use 2 by 6 lumber pieces; these pieces are generally used in new construction projects and as such R-19s are less common in renewals and renovated projects.
Therefore, you will not see them often in basements and attics or floors unless they are used to “fluff” the R values of the general insulation.
In most cases, the difference between one choice and any other is the cost of the insulation itself. While you are considering the cost of the amount of insulation, you will need to cover the square footage of the area you need to insulate, also consider two things:
- The durability of the insulation
- The desired result of the insulation itself.
The durability of the insulation refers to the time that the insulation you set in place will be able to work to the best of its abilities. For instance, if you are installing the insulation in a wall, you need to know that the insulation in that wall will fully last for an extended period.
This is because changing the insulation is neither easy nor cheap. When you install R19 you are seeking that it will halt any vapors coming through it. If this is what you want and you expect the duration to be a long run; then it might not be a problem to have R19.
To make it easier to understand, consider that the warmer air in a home is higher-pressure air. This air needs by physics to “move” to a lower pressure, cooler air location that is outside of the home. The insulation that’s installed in walls and ceilings will slow down this transfer (or halt it altogether).
R19 is a very standard and cost-effective way to ensure that your insulation is adequate to keep this transference into a low key. A higher R will be a better choice, but that will also be a more costly option and it might not be necessary.
R19 can be used in:
- 2x6 wall cavities
- Ceilings with attics
- Basements Ceilings
- Subfloors
- Metal Buildings, Pole Buildings and Sheds
- Cathedral Ceilings
R 19 can also come
- Unfaced
- Faced
- PSK - Poly Scrim Kraft - White Vinyl
- FSK - Foil Scrim Kraft - Foil Faced
- Encapsulated - completely wrapped in Vinyl
- White, pink and Brown
What Widths does R 19 come in?
R 19 Widths available
- 15 inches
- 16 inches
- 19 inches
- 23 inches
- 24 inches
If you dont know what R 19 is best for your project call us and we can help determine how to best complete your project. There are many ways to skin a cat..meaning there can be several options to finish your job.
To order please call or text (424) 343-6530
When we talk of insulation, the term R-value inevitably enters the conversation. A wall is R-19, a roof is R-30 — what does this mean?
Essentially R-value is a measure of thermal resistance, or the ability to prevent the transfer of heat. The larger the number, the harder that insulation is working at preventing heat conduction. The less heat loss, the lower your energy bills.
Jeff Wilson, who is retrofitting his 70-year-old home in Athens, Ohio, explains R-value like this: "Say you took a blow torch and lit it against a piece of tin foil. If you touched the other side of that foil, it would be hot. If you put that blow torch against wall board and touched the other side of the board, it would get warm, but it would not get hot quickly." The wall board has a higher R-value than the tin foil because it provides a better thermal break.
So how much R-value is enough — and what is considered energy efficient? Jeff says the majority of U.S. homes were constructed with 3x4 walls and filled with R-13 insulation. Newer, smarter standards are 2x6 walls (a larger cavity provides more room for a thicker thermal barrier) with R-19 insulation. The standard R-value for roofs is R-30 or R-40.
A quick science lesson helps explain how heat transfer can sabotage a home's energy efficiency, and what you can do to stop it. Heat moves in three ways: conduction, convection or radiation.
R-value addresses conduction: the transfer of heat through a material (your walls).
Convection occurs when heat and moisture move, and this happens when a home's envelope — siding, sheathing, walls — are not tight. Convection issues are solved by air-sealing a home.
"Unfortunately, most homes are leaky and have holes on the outside shell," Jeff says. "If air can pass through the cavity to where the insulation is, there are two main problems: You're convectively moving heat, and also sucking moisture in, which tends to condense and form mildew inside wall cavities."
Radiation is when heat flows from a hotter material to a cooler one. For example, black roofing attracts heat and transfers it into the attic. Jeff addresses this with radiant sheathing that deflects heat from the home.
The take-away Jeff emphasizes: While a higher R-value is important for providing a thermal barrier (preventing conduction), it does not address radiation or convection. Only by air-sealing the home, improving insulation and addressing radiant heat on the roof can a home reach optimum energy efficiency.
Insulating your home will improve its R-value and help conserve energy, regardless of other air-sealing efforts you make. Every little bit helps.
Choose insulation. The most common types of insulation on the market today are fiberglass batting, cellulose (paper fiber) and foam board. Foam board provides higher R-values but tends to cost quite a bit more. "Ideally you apply [foam board] on the outside surface, which is difficult for most people because their homes have siding or brick — an impediment for installation," Wilson says. Spray foam is more readily available today in do-it-yourself kits.
Aim for high standards. Generally speaking, walls should be R-19 and the roof should be R-30 or R-40, Jeff says. You can kick that up and shoot for standards set by the Passive House Institute US — R-30 walls and an R-60 roof.
Think beyond R-value. As you explore ways to tighten your home and prevent heat transfer of all kinds, improve the building envelope with more secure siding and better roofing that will prevent convection and radiation.